I’m
standing on platform 2 at Brockenhurst train station in the New
Forest , Hampshire. A mild scent of humid earth floats in the air
from the grove of oak, chestnut, sycamore, beech and hazel that has edged up to
the railway lines. The chorus of birdsong is dominated by the squawking and chattering
of a population of magpies. I check in my bag for my ticket. The last time I stood
on this platform I was laden with a rucksack and tent, thrilled to be going on
holiday with my friend Jane. That was thirty years ago and the station doesn’t
appear to have changed at all since then. Indeed, there’s a quaintness about it that I associate with early last century. Jane is with me today and she too
notices the apparent timelessness of this place. I look at her and see only the
features of my eighteen-year-old companion on the face of a woman whose adult life
I knew nothing about until our reunion this morning. She has travelled down
from the north of England
to join me on a pilgrimage today, on a journey that pays homage to the sunshine-filled
holidays of our youth.
My thoughts about our miraculous reunion are
interrupted by yet another security announcement on the station tannoy. Momentarily,
the birdsong ceases and I glance around at the half dozen or so travellers
“loitering” on the platform, wondering how I might define suspicious activity
and whether it would be suspicious enough for me to inform the police, as the
tannoy urges. England
has changed. Official obsession with terrorism is transforming this society
into a police state where citizens are regularly encouraged to inform on each
other. Trust is being replaced by a wariness that creeps just below the surface
of the English tendency toward reservation.
At eighteen years old my reserves of trust were
infinite. Three decades of life experience have depleted those reserves and I
feel that loss now, standing in the place where I giggled excitedly with Jane
in anticipation of what was up ahead, of our freedom. We travelled down from
the industrial north each summer, escaping into a world where Nature was just a
few footsteps away and where a rustic lifestyle still prevailed. Both of us were
both passionate about the Wessex of Thomas Hardy; in it we were seeking a world
more authentic than our 9 to 5 routine in a Manchester city centre government office. But
we were also young and hoping for adventure. The New
Forest gave us both.
The train to groans to a standstill and
hisses before the doors open to the accompaniment of repeated warning beeps. We
board an almost empty carriage. Our station is Lymington Pier, the end of the
line, and just two stops away. Now, as then, we cry with delight at the first
sight of New Forest ponies chewing unhurriedly
on the heath land grass and deer that vanish with a single bound into the
nearby hazel copse. Our conversation is pure nostalgia; nearly all our
sentences begin with “Do you remember the time that …” and are invariably followed
by prolonged laughter. Three decades-old photos we have brought with us prompt
the memories, but some remain elusive. I have a photo I took of Jane standing
by her bike, reading a map, but no recollection of that day. Today we are back
together again, returning with our memories to the locations where they
unfolded.
The station at Lymington Pier has to be
unique in England .
Take a step down from the carriage and you are on the wooden pier-platform;
take a few more steps and you can lean over the railings and gaze down into the
sea. At the end of the pier, the Isle of White ferry waits with its bow door gaping,
ready to accept passengers bound for Yarmouth .
Jane and I head inland, in search of South
Baddesley Road , which will take us to Norleywood, to
the youth hostel where we pitched our tent, the base camp for our daily
excursions. It’s early on Friday afternoon and this country road is quiet, so
quiet that we can hear the bees hum softly on the honeysuckle and foxglove in
the hedgerows. Horses whinny in the distance and a breeze flutters, giving us
momentary respite from the heat.
The road takes us past Winter’s Wood,
Church Copse, and Otter’s Hill Copse. I still recall the January afternoon I
sought out the ordinance survey map from the previous summer just to touch
these names, willing myself to be far away from Hulme, Salford
and Bury. After about twenty minutes walking, we come upon a large red brick
house with 18th century features, crowned by majestic turret-like chimneys.
We both remember it. Perhaps Hardy passed by here, by this very “Gatekeeper’s
Lodge” and it inspired him to create one of his many troubled characters. “You
were troubled too, Karen” Jane remarks, “even back then.”
At the crossroads we turn left into an even
less-travelled road. A Montessori
School stands at the
junction and Jane comments on the idyllic location. It is one of the very few
buildings in a landscape of unbroken greenery and it too is ancient, an ancient
primary school, the setting of what were possibly the happiest, unclouded years
of many generations’ lives. The road becomes even narrower once it winds around
to the right. On both sides there are pathways disappearing into forest glades that
beckon to be explored.
At “the splash” we pause on the bridge to
take photos, posing in postures that match the ones in the snapshots I have in
my bag. Then our memories fail us. Do we turn left or right after “the splash”?
Jane raises her hands in surrender and so I suggest left. This takes us into
the hamlet of Norleywood but no closer to our destination, the youth hostel.
The homes we pass are a display of wealth; one or two of their owners eye us
curiously as we stroll by. The single bus stop in the hamlet, under siege by
encroaching privet and beech, gives us a clue to the location of the hostel. Beyond
it stands the familiar large red brick house, but the height of the fence and the
density of the hedge make it difficult to see into the extensive garden; the
tall wooden gate does not offer a better view. We follow the hedge around into
the adjoining unpaved lane. Toward the back there is another gate from where we
can see the property. It’s definitely Norleywood Youth Hostel, or rather, was.
The lawn remains just as when Jane and I camped there. I focus on the grass in
the spot we always chose to pitch our tent, seeking some clue to the girl I was
then. But memories are the only connection I have; they’ve brought me here
and now I feel I’m a ghost.
“I think that’s a private house” a young
woman smiles at us, while adjusting her position in the saddle. Her mount
adjusts the position of the bit in its mouth. She doesn’t know anything about a
youth hostel ever being in Norleywood,
“That must have been many years ago. I‘ve
grown up here and for as long as I can remember that house has been privately
owned.”
However,
she does know where the East End Arms is and points us in the direction of a
nearby bridle path that crosses the fields to the pub. We climb over the stile
and follow the path through tall seeded grass studded with burrs. In the
silence my thoughts dwell on our preparations in the tent for nights in the
pub. Sponge rollers, spot concealer, eyeliner, lipstick, cork-soled wedgies and
frantic efforts to smooth the creases from our denim skirts and gypsy-style
tops preceded our unwieldy advance along this very bridle path and over the
stile at the other end.
At eighteen, Jane and I caused a
sensation among the East End Arms youth. For them we were exotic visitors from
the North while they, for us, were the very rustics who populated the works of
Thomas Hardy. In Pog, Peter, Ned and their friends we allowed ourselves to
believe that we were reunited with the denizens of the woodland we had
encountered in the Wessex
novels. The friendship lasted three summers and memories sparkle with midnight
strolls to a chorus of cricket chirping along the bridle path back to our tent,
and parties in barns at the end of labyrinthine country lanes.
The pub hasn’t changed at all. The exterior
is identical and even the arrangement of furniture in the bar where we sipped
numerous Babychams matches my recollections. On the wall Jane finds an
explanation: a large press cutting recounts how Dire Straits guitarist John
Illsley purchased the property in the 1990s and vowed to keep the bar intact,
just as it was. And he did. But there is no sign of Pog, Ned or the others.
“We
probably wouldn’t recognise them anyway, even if they did walk in the door now.
They’re virtually old men,” says Jane.
I’d
like to ask at the bar but the barmaid looks like she may not even have been
born at the time we were flirting with the locals and, besides, I never learned
“Pog’s” real name.
After
our final trip to Norleywood a few letters were exchanged but contact faded as
all our lives took different courses; Jane went to nursing school and I entered
university, while agricultural college claimed some of our East
End admirers. As for Pog, he was too attached to the forest to
leave it. I turn to Jane,
“Where is Pog now? What kind of life did
that farmhand from another era end up having?”
Neither
of us responds to my question and now we’ll never know.
As each holiday ended our hearts began to
sink; and the train journey back to Manchester Picadilly was often a silent
one. Each time I returned, my life in that grim city seemed even grimmer, and
I’m convinced that the happiness, the sense of feeling supremely alive, we
experienced in Norleywood led to our determination to initiate change. And both
of us did. That is the lasting legacy of those summers in the New
Forest .
Hi Karen, Your presence must have been manna from heaven to the local lads, we used to drive through to Lymington via the East End Arms whilst at 6th form, circa 1982, mainly to admire the barmaid; her favorite song was Amour Amour by The Mobiles... it had a jukebox then. We now live in East End and were at the Arms early last Sunday night. I mentioned your blog to the table and it sparked some memories, to at least one and the pub was pretty empty. A real shame that the Norleywood Youth Hostel closed as it would have been a great asset now. Some great memories rebooted, thanks to your blog.
ReplyDeleteBest Wishes Phil
Dear Phil, Thank you so much for taking the time to comment on my post about the New Forest. The East End Arms was the scene of many happy, quite magical, memories for me and my friend Jane. The local lads were great fun and we missed them every time we had to return north. Our lives changed for the better because of those experiences. If you had come into the pub a year or two earlier we would have met each other. I wish you all the best, Karen
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